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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.